Curtain eyelets are small metal or plastic rings fitted into the top of a curtain to allow a rod to pass through cleanly. They are one of the most widely used heading systems in both residential and commercial settings, offering a neat, contemporary finish and effortless glide along the rod. This guide covers everything you need to know — from eyelet types and materials to sizes and installation — whether you are a curtain maker, interior designer, or a homeowner tackling a DIY project.
What are curtain eyelets?
A curtain eyelet consists of two parts: a front ring (the eyelet itself) and a back washer. The two pieces are crimped or pressed together through a pre-punched hole in the fabric, sandwiching the material and creating a reinforced, smooth-edged aperture. The curtain rod passes directly through the eyelets, producing the characteristic soft, regular folds that make this heading style so popular. Unlike pinch-pleat or pencil-pleat headings, eyelet curtains require no hooks, rings, or gliders — the rod simply threads straight through.
Types of curtain eyelets by shape
Round eyelets
The most common form. Round curtain eyelets suit every rod diameter from 16 mm to 40 mm and are available in the widest range of materials and finishes. They produce evenly spaced, symmetrical folds and are the default choice for most curtain projects.
Oval eyelets
Oval eyelets create a slightly flatter fold and work particularly well on very lightweight fabrics or sheer panels, where a round eyelet might cause too much fabric bunching. The horizontal opening allows the rod to sit lower in the eyelet, giving a cleaner drape.
Reversible (double-faced) eyelets
Reversible curtain eyelets have a decorative front ring on both sides, so the curtain looks equally finished whether viewed from inside or outside. Ideal for divider curtains, bay windows, or any situation where both faces of the curtain are visible.
Materials
Brass
Brass is the premium standard for curtain eyelets. It is naturally corrosion-resistant, highly malleable (which means a crisp, tight crimp every time), and takes decorative finishes exceptionally well. Common brass finishes include polished gold, antique brass, satin nickel, chrome, and gun-metal black.
Stainless steel
Stainless steel eyelets offer maximum mechanical strength and total corrosion resistance with no surface treatment required. They are the material of choice for heavy curtains, bathroom curtains exposed to steam, and any marine or coastal environment where salt air would attack lesser metals.
Aluminium
Aluminium eyelets are the lightest option — up to 65% lighter than brass — and are well suited to lightweight voiles and net curtains where added weight in the header would cause distortion. They can be anodised in a range of colours. The trade-off is lower tensile strength compared with brass or steel.
Steel with decorative finishes
Steel eyelets with nickel, chrome, black, or brass-plated finishes offer a cost-effective middle ground. They provide good mechanical strength at a lower price than solid brass, making them popular for volume projects. Be aware that the surface finish determines corrosion resistance, so these are best kept away from permanently humid environments.
Size guide
Choosing the correct eyelet size is critical. If the interior diameter is too small, the curtain will not slide freely; if it is too large, the fabric gathers unevenly. Use the table below as a starting point:
| Curtain rod diameter | Recommended eyelet interior diameter | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| 16 mm | 19–20 mm | Lightweight voiles, net curtains |
| 19–20 mm | 22–25 mm | Standard domestic curtains |
| 25–28 mm | 30–32 mm | Medium-weight lined curtains |
| 35 mm | 38–40 mm | Heavy interlined curtains, commercial use |
| 40–50 mm | 45–55 mm | Large-format commercial or stage curtains |
As a general rule, allow 3–4 mm of clearance between the rod diameter and the eyelet interior diameter so the curtain slides without snagging.
Installation tips
Spacing
Space curtain eyelets between 15 cm and 20 cm apart, measured centre to centre. Closer spacing (12–15 cm) is recommended for bathroom curtains to minimise gaps that let water spray through. Always use an even number of eyelets so the curtain begins and ends with a fold facing the same direction.
Use interlining on lightweight fabrics
Thin fabrics will tear around the eyelet under the weight of the curtain. Always iron on a strip of woven interlining or use an eyelet tape across the full width of the heading before punching holes. This distributes the load evenly across all eyelets.
Pre-mark hole positions
Lay the curtain flat, mark the position of every eyelet with chalk or a fabric marker before punching a single hole. Check that the spacing is uniform, that every mark is the same distance from the top edge (typically 3–4 cm), and that the total number of eyelets is even. A few minutes spent marking accurately prevents costly mistakes.
Punch slightly smaller than the eyelet tube
The punched hole should be fractionally smaller than the outer diameter of the eyelet tube. This ensures the fabric is gripped tightly between the two eyelet pieces when crimped, preventing the eyelet from spinning or pulling through under load.
Why buy directly from manufacturers?
Purchasing curtain eyelets directly from a manufacturer like Industria Acosta Pramon S.A. means consistent quality, access to the full range of sizes and finishes, competitive pricing on bulk orders, and the ability to request samples before committing to a large purchase. With over 75 years of manufacturing experience, we supply professional curtain makers, interior designers, upholsterers, and retailers across Europe.