Eyelet tape is an indispensable accessory when fitting curtain eyelets to fabric that lacks the body to support them on its own. It is a stiffened strip of woven or non-woven material — often with a heat-activated adhesive backing — that is applied to the top of the curtain before the eyelets are punched and fitted. Understanding which type to use, in what width, and how to apply it correctly is the key to a professional eyelet heading that hangs beautifully and lasts for years.
What eyelet tape does
Eyelet tape performs three functions simultaneously:
- Reinforces the fabric: It prevents the curtain material from tearing around the eyelet under the weight of the curtain and the friction of the rod.
- Marks hole positions: Quality eyelet tapes are pre-printed or pre-punched with evenly spaced hole guides, eliminating the need to measure and mark each position individually.
- Stiffens the header: It gives the top of the curtain the structure needed to maintain flat, even folds between the eyelets, which is what creates the neat, contemporary look associated with eyelet curtains.
Types of eyelet tape
Transparent perforated eyelet tape
This is the most widely used type for domestic curtain making. It is a semi-rigid strip of clear or white polypropylene or polyester with pre-punched holes at regular centres. The tape is either ironed on (if it has a fusible backing) or sewn along the top and bottom edges. It is invisible from the front of the finished curtain and works with virtually any fabric weight up to medium. It is the go-to choice for ready-made curtain manufacturers and home sewers alike.
Reinforced woven eyelet tape
Woven eyelet tape uses a heavy cotton or polyester weave to provide greater stiffness and load-bearing capacity. It is designed for heavy curtains — thick lined curtains, interlined curtains, velvet, and similar fabrics — where the transparent perforated tape would not provide sufficient support. It is typically sewn rather than ironed on, and may be used in combination with a separate interlining layer for very heavy projects.
Iron-on (fusible) eyelet tape
Iron-on tape has a heat-activated adhesive on the back that bonds to the curtain fabric when pressed with a hot iron. It is the fastest option for home use and produces a clean, integrated result. However, it is not suitable for fabrics that cannot tolerate high iron temperatures (synthetic sheers, velvet), and on very heavy fabrics the bond alone is insufficient — the tape should also be sewn.
Standard sizes
| Tape width | Eyelet interior diameter | Typical application |
|---|---|---|
| 55 mm | 25–28 mm | Light to medium domestic curtains, 19–25 mm rod |
| 65 mm | 30–32 mm | Medium to heavy domestic curtains, 25–28 mm rod |
| 75 mm | 38–40 mm | Heavy lined or interlined curtains, 35 mm rod |
| 90 mm | 45–50 mm | Commercial or stage curtains, large-diameter rods |
As a rule, choose a tape width that is at least 10 mm wider than the eyelet exterior diameter on each side, so the eyelet washer is fully supported by the tape.
Step-by-step installation guide
- Prepare the curtain heading: Turn down the top of the curtain by the depth of the tape plus 1 cm for a clean folded edge. Press the fold flat with an iron.
- Apply the tape: If using iron-on tape, position it on the wrong side of the folded heading with the adhesive side down, aligning the pre-punched holes as required. Press firmly with a hot iron (appropriate temperature for the fabric) for 10–15 seconds per section, overlapping to ensure full adhesion. For sewn tape, pin and stitch along both long edges.
- Mark the hole positions: Use the pre-punched guides in the tape to mark the centre of each eyelet position on the fabric with a chalk pencil. Check that the total number of eyelets will be even before punching.
- Punch the holes: Use a hole punch (rotary punch, arch punch, or mechanical press punch) to cut a clean hole through both the fabric and the tape at each marked position. The hole diameter should be 1–2 mm smaller than the eyelet tube outer diameter.
- Insert and crimp the eyelets: Place each eyelet through its hole (front face outwards), place the washer on the reverse side, and crimp using the appropriate hand tool or press. Check each eyelet is tight and does not rotate.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Using tape that is too narrow: If the tape does not fully cover the eyelet washer, the fabric around the eyelet will be unsupported and liable to tear under load.
- Not sewing iron-on tape on heavy fabrics: The adhesive bond alone will not hold on heavy, stiff, or textured fabrics — always sew as well as iron.
- Punching before the adhesive is fully set: Allow iron-on tape to cool completely before punching or the adhesive may peel away from the punch edge.
- Using an odd number of eyelets: This causes the curtain to finish with folds facing opposite directions at each end, disrupting the symmetry of the heading.
- Punching holes that are too large: If the hole is larger than the eyelet tube, the eyelet will pull through under the weight of the curtain. Always punch smaller and work up if necessary.